From Punk Spirit to Haute Joaillerie -
Making a Sculptural Manchette
Autumn 2025
Nigel holding the Tank Girl Cuff, in studio. Photograph by Al Higgins
In French, the word manchette translates to 'cuff,' but in the world of haute joaillerie it means much more — a bold, sculptural wrist piece designed to command attention. This is the story of one such creation: a bespoke commission for a client, shaped by memory, music, and a spark of counterculture.
Images: Tank Girl Cuff, by Nigel O'Reilly, Photograph by John Mee
At Christmas last year, a visitor came to my studio with a question: what could he give his wife for their tenth wedding anniversary that would truly mean something? Rather than guess, I suggested he bring her in — because the most important part of any commission for me, as designer and goldsmith, is the client’s story.
When she arrived, we spoke about growing up in the west of Ireland, her life abroad, family, children, the usual things — until she mentioned her teenage love of comics, especially Tank Girl. That single reference lit up my inspiration for the path forward.
The Inspiration
Growing up in rural County Mayo in the 1990s, many of us were shaped by that same electric culture: indie comics, punk energy, and music that roared with freedom — Nirvana, Nine Inch Nails, Björk. That world, half-rebellious and half-tender, I carried into the studio with me as I began sketching the potential manchette.
The Craft
This sculptural wrist piece was handcrafted in studio, in gold. Its body is formed in solid 18KT white gold, and meticulously folded in a 'zig-zag' concertina style, with an 18KT rose gold grenade pin detail and a precision-engineered articulating hinge in 18KT yellow gold. My vision was to borrow the strength and geometry of artillery, but instead of armour, the piece becomes adornment, a celebration of feminine power, irreverence and elegance.
Across its surface, 1,098 round brilliant-cut stones are pavé set — rubies, orange diamonds, and pink diamonds — together weighing 5.49 carats. The colour palette of the precious diamonds and gemstones were chosen to echo that sense of vitality and edge, while retaining the sophistication inherent in haute joaillerie.
Nigel O’Reilly creating the diamond and ruby cuff under the microscope in his west of Ireland studio. Photography by Al Higgins
What emerged with the Tank Girl Cuff is more than jewellery. It is an 'objet d’art' for the wrist — strong, structured, elegant, yet with a punk undertone that honours my client's story. For me, that’s the essence of my work as a goldsmith: to listen, to connect, and to translate someone’s life into a jewel that will endure.
Image: Tank Girl Cuff, by Nigel O'Reilly, Photograph by John Mee
“They say inspiration can come from anywhere — and sometimes, it arrives wearing combat boots and a mohawk… This cuff may be set with over a thousand gems, but it carries more than sparkle. It carries rebellion, humour, grit — and freedom.”
The Goldsmith’s Journal
Spring 2025
Image: Helena Christensen for Numero Switzerland Magazine, Photograph by Petros Kouiouris, Styled by Ayumi Perry,
Dear Esteemed Collectors and Jewellery Connoisseurs;
“In a recent editorial shoot for Numero Magazine Switzerland, legendary supermodel Helena Christensen wore two of my most iconic rings—The Orb and Estella. Each a testament to my signature fusion of bold artistry and technical mastery, each with a story of their own.”
‘Shot in New York, and framed by the city’s moody and architectural elegance, Helena brought luminous life to these sculptural forms and vivid gemstones, capturing the spirit of modern heirloom jewellery with magnetic presence. A rare meeting of muse and masterpiece, both pieces were hand-crafted at my bench in our west of Ireland studio. I was lucky enough to meet Helena at the shoot, and explain my jewellery making process to her.’
Image: Helena Christensen for Numero Switzerland Magazine, Photograph by Petros Kouiouris, Styled by Ayumi Perry,
The Orb, Photograph by Richard Foster, London
The Orb
“When a golden natural pearl like this arrives on my goldsmithing bench, I know I’m holding something truly exceptional. These pearls are not only incredibly rare in fine jewellery — they also carry a heritage shaped by time, nature, and extraordinary circumstance. With The Orb, I wanted to honour that rarity by creating a kind of miniature world — a microcosm inspired by the way plant seeds disperse and take root.”
‘I cradled the pearl at the centre of a spherical, undulating ring in pure gold, its surface carved with hundreds of tiny apertures and set with sapphires and diamonds. Around it, a second, more delicate outer layer forms a filigree structure, also set with diamonds in a criss-cross pattern. And beneath the pearl, I left a cross-section open, inviting you to look inside — to glimpse the hidden architecture of this little world and the detail that lies within.'
The Orb, Photograph by Richard Foster, London
A technical description? The Orb is set with a central 14mm golden South Sea pearl and set in one 18KT rose gold ring accompanied by three hundred and eighty 1.1mm pavé set brilliant cut pink sapphires, orange sapphires, pink diamonds, green diamonds and blue diamonds for a total accompanying gemstone carat weight of 2.28cts.
Meet the Maker, Jewellery Designer Nigel O’Reilly in studio with a client, discussing his collection of rare gemstones. Photo by John Mee Photography
Access the rare world of bespoke high jewellery with Nigel O’Reilly — by appointment only, for those seeking the extraordinary.”
The Goldsmith’s Journal
Winter 2024
“If you fall in love with the imagination, you understand that it is a free spirit. It will go anywhere, and it can do anything”
The Art of Storytelling in High Jewellery
Nigel O’Reilly is not only a master craftsman and high jewellery designer, he is a seasoned storyteller. Through each and every bespoke piece of heirloom jewellery Nigel painstakingly handcrafts, he weaves a compelling narrative; a poignant tale distinctively told through his visionary and wholly unique use of precious metals and exceptional gemstones.
His unbridled imagination coupled with a technical prowess make dreams a reality – his and yours.
Learn more about Nigel O’Reilly
Latest Work: 'The Last of Us' Ring
The latest addition to Nigel’s celebrated archive is ‘The Last of Us’ Ring; a visually stunning and masterfully designed collectible inspired by the apocalyptic television series of the same name..
Lavishly textured, 18KT rose gold frames a magnetic black-star diopside stone, extravagantly adorned by 632 diamonds, sapphires and rubies in evocative shades of blood-, flame- and cardinal-red.
The deep well of the central black gemstone is an eloquent expression of human catastrophe and devastation, yet its breathtaking beauty embodies a restorative message of triumph in adversity and artistry amid tragedy.
Lovingly crafted with passion and purpose in Nigel’s Wild Atlantic Way studio, it is a bold and opulent piece that speaks of resilience, tenacity and mastery.
Learn more about ‘The Last of Us’ Ring
Recent Coverage in Barron’s Penta
“Nigel O’Reilly is one of the great talents to emerge in fine jewellery circles over the past decade”
Barron’s wealth-management magazine Penta recently highlighted Nigel O’Reilly as a trailblazer in contemporary fine jewelry. As the first and only Irish goldsmith to be sold at Sotheby’s New York and to hold a solo exhibition at Sotheby’s Los Angeles, Nigel is reshaping the landscape of luxury jewelry design.
Throughout the interview, Nigel shares his vision and speaks passionately about his creative drive and ambition to elevate fine jewellery into a boundary-breaking artform that exceeds his own and clients’ expectations.
“A lot of these pieces I am making are to challenge myself, and to make me excited about the work. I want to do what I love and that’s making beautiful pieces of jewellery while constantly trying to push the boundaries to show people what’s out there and what can be done if you’ve got the right skill and mindset.”
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